When we are using our horses, one of the most important things we can do for their well being is to make sure that the equipment we use fits correctly. Ill fitting tack is a major part of why many horses are stiff, sore, or sour. When our horses are comfortable, they will perform for us willingly instead of being forced. In this post we will talk about properly fitting your horses bridle to their head. *key words are bolded
First lets review the basic parts of a bridle. Bridles are generally classified under 2 basic categories: English and Western. Most bridles you will find fall into one of these categories, however, there is one other category, Anatomic bridles, which include popular models like the Micklem and PS of Sweden. Since the majority of bridles you will be around are not anatomical bridles, I will not be covering those in this particular post. All bridles have the same basic components: the head piece, cheek pieces, browband, and throatlatch. It's important to note that some western bridles(also referred to as headstalls) will have an ear loop instead of a browband and will sometimes not have a throatlatch. The main way that english and western differ is in the use of nosebands. You will always see a noseband of some sort on an english bridle but rarely if ever in a western style.
When fitting your bridle, there are several basic adjustments that you can use as a starting point. First, check that your browband isn't too tight or too loose. If its too tight it can pinch (think of a too tight headband) and cause the rest of your bridle to not lay in the correct places. If its too loose, that is not as big a problem, but it can flop around and be annoying. Next there is the rule of 2's that I like to follow. The noseband being 2 finger widths below the cheek bone(for cavisons), 2 wrinkles in the lip behind the bit, and 2 fingers able to fit in the noseband once tightened. If you have a flash on your noseband, it should also be able to fit 2 fingers. Once you have made these adjustments, you are probably good to go or at least very close to what works for your horse. Next we will look at some more detailed things you may want to consider about your bridle fit that are good to think about since each horse is different. In the next few paragraphs, we will look at bit placement, nosebands, the throatlatch, and curb straps.
There are so many opinions on how low to let a bit hang in the horse's mouth. Some people prefer to let it hang lower without lip wrinkles, and some prefer to have it tighter with 2-3 lip wrinkles. However, part of your decision on the placement of the bit should be made with the anatomy of your personal horse's mouth in mind. If your horse has a shorter mouth, your bit may hang lower, If they have a long mouth it may hang higher. Some horses prefer a bit that's hung a bit lower, which makes it looser and more mobile. Some may prefer a higher placement that is more stable. I like to adjust my horses bits 2-3 times before settling on a placement. This way I can be sure of what works best for my horse.
Nosebands come in 3 basic types: a cavison with or without a flash, a figure 8, and a drop noseband. A cavison is a noseband which drops directly down from the head piece and wraps around the face. Its purpose is to prevent the horse from gaping the mouth to avoid the contact of the bit. The general rule of thumb is that it needs to clear the cheek bone by 2 finger widths, and to be able to fit 2 fingers flush against the horse, between the horse and the nose band. This may be adjusted as needed. I have had some horses who need the noseband slightly closer to the cheek and some that needed it further down, as well as some horses who worked with the cavison tighter or looser. When a cavison is used with a flash noseband, it is also important to be sure that the flash is in the correct place too. A flash is used to keep the horse from crossing the jaw to one side or the other. If the flash is tightened too much it could impinge on the breathing of the horse, but if its too loose then it does nothing. I also try to always put the buckle right over the soft nostril area. This seems like it would actually be a bad thing, but the nostril area has some give to it, where as if you put it on the boney area it would be very sharp because bone is unyielding. This makes me personally believe that putting the buckle on a fleshy area is much more comfortable. A figure 8 noseband fits slightly differently. It serves the same basic purpose at the cavison with the flash, but the design is different. The ring where the cheek piece connects should rest over the cheek, and the intersection point of the noseband, should rest in such a way that the front strap can comfortably go in front of the bit without pulling or pinching the bit and lips. The 2 finger rule for tightness applies here as well. A drop noseband is a noseband that is attached below the bit but above the nostrils. You have to be especially careful with these to be sure they are not inhibiting the horses breathing. They have the same purpose as a cavison, just with a different design and placement.
The throatlatch is a commonly misunderstood part of the bridle. I often see people tightening it up behind the jowl which is not correct. The purpose pf the throat latch is simply to keep the bridle from slipping off if the horse should happen to rub its head on something. The throat latch doesn't need to be as tight as possible to accomplish this. It is best to adjust the throat latch to rest on the middle of the half circle of the jowl. This will allow it to do its job while also allowing the horse to have free range of motion with its head as well as avoiding choking it.
Curb straps are used on leverage bits, and can be either a leather strap or a flat chain. You will find
leverage bits in both english and western disciplines. When a leverage bit is being used, you will need a curb strap on the bit for it to function properly. If you don't have one, or your strap is too loose then the leverage/poll pressure function of the bit will not engage and your bit will function improperly or
may even cause pain. By adjusting the tightness of the curb strap you can choose when the leverage and poll pressure engages which allows for some control over how severe the bit is. A good rule is to be able to fit 1 - 2 fingers between the strap and the chin. You can adjust from there after determining what is ideal for your horse.
Always remember, when your horse is uncomfortable, he will not perform for you. If you continue to train a horse when it is uncomfortable, you will end up with a horse who resents work and who will eventually become hard to handle and dangerous. Try to be sure that everything you do with your horse revolves around its well being and you will be able to accomplish so much more!